 |
Kitset Build - Voltimer Part 1 |
 |
|
|
Welcome to this on line build of the Airsail Voltimer. You’ll find there are variations from the instructions supplied with the kit. This is due our finding a “better way” to achieve the result. You’ll also find there are some comments about poorly cut or less than satisfactory fitting parts. These problems will be remedied and where applicable an addendum will be included in subsequent kits to highlight changes and/or improvements. We hope you enjoy this build and end up with the pleasure we’ve had out of building as well as the relaxed flying that’s achieved with this model. And so to start …….. We’re going to start with the fuselage as per the instructions. First step is to cover the fuselage side view section of the plan with plastic film. Now identify and lay out the die-cut cabin in-fill pieces. Clean up the edges as necessary with a sanding bar. Cut the 5mm square cabin centre beam to length then pin the in-fills down on the plan. (Picture 1) Now add the top beam and the then the vertical uprights …also from 5mm square. (Picture 2 & 3) These are best cut accurately with a razor saw, check and sand the end to correct angle before gluing in place.
From the bundle of strips supplied choose 4 x 5mm squares of equal hardness and “bendability” (tensile strength in tech terms) to use as upper and lower longerons. Careful selection of these will help ensure a straight and square fuselage structure. (Picture 4)
In order to make the lower longeron curve more easily around the nose area a simple technique is to thoroughly wet that end under hot water and make some creases on the inside of the bend with you thumb nail. (Picture 5) Now pin and brace it down over the plan until it dries out. (Picture 6 & 7) While this is drying make up the die-cut triangle gussets for the bracing at the rear of the cabin top. (Picture 8) Also all the vertical and diagonal spacers can be cut, preferably with a razor saw. (Picture 9)
When the lower longeron has dried and set it can be glued easily, holding it with your fingers or by pinning. (Picture 10) You can now carry on and build the rear section. The upper longeron may benefit from being treated with hot water also, depending on the hardness of the material. The stern post should be made up from scrap material from a die-cut panel. (Picture 11) When the structure has dried the pins can be removed and then sanded smooth with a sanding bar …both sides. Avoid being too aggressive with the sanding process …let the sandpaper do the work. (Picture 12 & 13)
One side done …so now we try something different to build the second side. Turn the plan over so all you see is plane white paper and lay the fist side on the paper …also turned over. Cover the plan and the first side with clear film. Pin down the 1.5mm die-cut in-fills at the cabin area…..aligning them with the first side. (Picture 14) Now complete the second side structure in same “order” as the first by literally building it on top of the first. (Picture 15, 16 & 17) (Don’t make the mistake I did and partially cut through the first side when using the razor saw!)
If you’ve pre-cut all the verticals and diagonals you’ll see the benefit of doing so in the speed with which the second side is completed. When all is dry, remove from the plan and sand as you did for the first side. Now mark the position of the servo rails (Picture 18) and the battery hatch rails, then cut and glue in place in the inside of each side frame of course.
Glue F1a to the firewall. (Picture 19, 20 & 21) When dry drill the 3mm holes for the split pins. As you will see there are “punch marks” on the wood at the drilling locations. For the best results keep the former pressed firmly on the drilling block and use a sharp or new drill at a high speed. (Picture 22)
As the instructions say the split pins are a tight fit on the wire. The best option is open them up with a screw driver, (Picture 23) they are then “encouraged” to slide over the wire. (Picture 24) Once this has been achieved, crimp them closed again prior to fitting the U/C to the former.
Fit the undercarriage to the front face of the former. (Picture 25) Fit the washers to the split pins (Picture 26) and once you’re sure the U/C is correctly aligned carefully fold the legs of the pins down. (Picture 27) Double check the alignment then gently tap the split pin legs with a small hammer to tighten them. (Picture 28) The ends need to be trimmed and this can be done with a cut-off wheel or a good pair of side cutters. (Picture 29) Be sure to cut the lower tags short enough to allow the fitting of a 5mm cross brace at the bottom of the former.
Now the fun starts. Cut seven pieces of 5mm square for the cabin area cross braces as per the instructions. Be sure to use up any short lengths before you go cutting into fresh sticks. As the instructions say these must all be the same length. If you’ve removed the cling film, relocate it over the top view. To join the sides proceed as follows. Support one side, upside down over the plan with pins. Use a square to keep the side vertical and fit three cross braces to the top rail …where the wing will sit …don’t forget the side is upside down. Use super glue if possible as it makes life easier and the job quicker. Locate and square up the second side, check the cross braces are correctly aligned and glue the second side in place. Now add the cross braces to the lower longerons, once again using the square to ensure a good straight “box”. (Picture 30)
When the glue has set remove this basic box from the plan carefully and test fit F1 to the front end. Use PVA or 5 Min Epoxy to fix this in place, holding with sticky tape until it’s all set. (Picture 31) Now glue the cross brace to the back of F1. (Picture 32) Glue another cross brace at the base of the “windshield” area then glue the 1.5mm sheet (grain across the fuselage) as per picture 33.
Cut all the cross braces for the rear fuselage (in pairs) (Picture 34) and locate the structure over the plan again. Apply some PVA to the stern post and pull the rear ends together with a rubber band or tape it while it glues. Take the time to check that it square and aligned. Now add the rear cross braces. (Picture 35 & 36) Note that there’s no cross braces at the last, rear-most vertical station. When all this is complete you will have a fuselage that looks as it does in picture 37.
Glue the 1.5mm in-fill piece into the rear fuselage side…to support the elevator push rod. On the original this was on the right hand side, however it doesn’t really matter which side it’s located as long as the rudder push rod is arranged on the opposite side. (Picture 38 & 39)
Cut the top and bottom rear in-fills from 2.5mm sheet supplied and after test fitting glue with PVA or Aliphatic. Slip a small rubber band to pull the sides together. (Picture 40, 41 & 42)
Identify and laminate the two pieces K1 Dorsal Fin or tailskid. (Picture 43) Mark and glue the fin in place. A tip….. Experience has shown the dorsal fin will benefit from having a strip of 2.5mm square added to each side at the base, reinforcing the join. The outside edge should be rounded to make it look neat and tidy. (Picture 44 & 45)
Back to the front end now. Laminate the two pieces F2a (Picture 46) which give the shape for the top end of the windshield. (Picture 47) When this is dry, remove the front top cross brace and fit the F2a in it’s place. (Picture 48) Now cut two lengths of 4mm dowel to length over the plan and round the outer ends. (Picture 49) Cut the triangle piece to length and mark the position of the dowels. (Picture 50)
Using a razor saw make 4mm deep cut at the marks to create a channel for the dowels. (Picture 51) Trial fit the dowels, adjust the triangle block as required and then glue in place. Shape the ends of the triangle to F2a. (Picture 52) The rear dowel for the wing retaining bands runs across the fuselage and you should drill the 4mm holes for this but don’t glue this dowel in place until after the model has been completed and covered.
Cut and fit the 5mm square cross braces for the servo rails. (Picture 53) It would be a good idea to settle on the servos you plan to use and drill the mounting holes in the plywood plate before you glue the plate in place. When you do glue this in place allow for the servos to be as far forward as possible. (Picture 54)
Fit and glue the ply floor for the battery compartment, also the ply cross brace to stop the battery shifting aft. (Picture 55)
The next step is to make the Battery compartment cover. I’ve changed this slightly in this build as I think it’s better and more easily done as follows. Check the cover for size and sand the edges smooth. Cut two pieces of 5mm Square balsa to fit neatly between the lower longerons. Steam the cover to a nice bend and let it cool and dry. You will find you have to “over bend “ it to get it to set properly. Mark and glue the front 5mm Square locator 1.5mm from the front edge. Mark the position of the rear one and glue in place. (Picture 56)
Take the alloy plate provided and flatten carefully … with a hammer or between two steel rules. (Picture 57 & 58) Now bend the angle so it fits to the front former and the underside of the fuselage correctly. (Picture 59 & 60) Make the bend across it’s narrowest dimension.
Tape the battery cover in place and trial fit the alloy retainer. Mark and drill two holes large enough for the two self-tapping screws provided. (Picture 61) Drill two smaller diameter holes in F1 and the doubler with a pin vice and screw the plate in place. (Picture 62) It’s best to grind off the screw points on the inside. (Picture 63)
Now mark the position of the 1.5mm plywood catch mounting plate at the rear end of the battery cover and glue in place followed by two pieces of 1.5 x 5.0mm balsa “fairing strips”. (Picture 64 & 65) Fair these as shown in picture 66 and 67.
To make the retaining catch for the cover, cut pieces from the 1.5 die-cut scrap material with a knife of a pair of good side-cutters. (Picture 68) One piece needs to be glued to the ply plate on the inside as per picture 69. This is to give additional thickness for the latch screw to thread into. The other piece is for the latch itself. Cut and sand this to shape and drill a hole at one end for the retaining screw. (Picture 70) Hold the latch in place and drill through the catch plate then fix the latch in place with a self-tapping screw. (Picture 71 & 72) Now fit the battery cover and lock it in place as in picture 73. It is a good idea to leave the cover in place and hold it down securely with tape to encourage it to retain it’s set curve that you steamed in earlier.
Locate the die-cut cross brace for rear of the cabin top and glue in place. (Picture 74)
Test fit the bock between the rear of F1 and the cabin rear wall. Now mark a diagonal line from the top of F1 at the front, to the lower edge of the block at the rear and cut this to shape with a razor plane or a hobby bandsaw….if you have one. (Picture 75) Glue this in place and shape to match the curve of the top of F1. (Picture 76)
We move now to the completion of the front end. This involves the assembly of the motor plate, the side panels and the top hatch. Also the set-up of the motor requires some attention. Starting with the motor/gearbox assembly, select the largest brass gear and fit to the shaft. Note that the gear must be fitted with the gear teeth closest to the motor case. (Picture 77)
Assemble the gearbox to the motor with the two screws provided as in picture 78, however before tightening the screws, cut a piece of note paper aprox 6.0mm wide and feed between the gears as per picture 79. Rotate the shaft back and forth a little then tighten the gearbox mounting screws completely. You might try a little Loctite or just a spot of super glue to ensure these screws are secure as they do tend to work loose with constant running. Remove the paper strip. The reason for the paper strip is to achieve and even “mesh” between the gears. Fit the prop adapter and the motor gearbox assembly is now ready to fit to the mounting plate.
Laminate the two 1.5mm plywood motor mount plates together and when dry test fit the Motor/gearbox assembly. (Picture 80 & 81) The cut-outs in the sides of the mounting plate are for cable ties used to secure the motor in place.
Cut two lengths of 9.5mm triangle balsa for motor supports and with the motor assembly resting in place, glue the triangles to the place. (Picture 82 & 83)
To fit the motor plate to F1, cut and glue the triangle pieces to the top and bottom of the plate at the rear edge. (Picture 84) Mark the position of the plate on to F1 and glue the motor plate in place. This should be 25mm from the top of F1 and also make a mark 6.5mm in from each side so as to centre the mounting plate. (Picture 85 & 86)
Mark out the shape of the nose side pieces and using a Razor Saw or Jig Saw cut to shape. (Picture 87 & 88) The sides are angled in towards the front so this rear edge must be angle to suit. (Picture 89) Also before gluing the sides in place you must make small cut-outs at the bottom rear edge of each side panel to clear the undercarriage legs. (Picture 90) Once satisfied with the way they fit glue them to both F1 and to the motor plate. (Picture 91 & 92)
Now sand the front edges flush with the motor plate and with the motor assembly in place fit the 1.5mm ply nose ring. (Picture 93) Use your trusty razor plane and sandpaper to shape the sides as shown in picture 94. Have the Hoover handy!
Finally, trim the top block so it’s a good fit for and aft…you’ll have to trim a little off the triangle mounting plate support to allow the top block to seat correctly… then spot glue the block in place at the corners before shaping as shown in picture 95. When your happy with the shape carefully break the spot glue joints with your model knife so the top pops off. There’s no need to make any locators for this block as it’s satisfactorily held on with a little clear tape whilst flying. That last step completes work on the fuselage for the moment.
|
|
