|
Airsail Voltimer, Part 2: The Tailplane - by
Brian Borland
Click on any image to enlarge
Having completed the fuselage we now move on to the tail
surfaces. The fin and rudder come first and are built together …but not glued
together!
Cover the fin area of the plan with film. Take the die-cut
parts K2, K3, K4 and K5 and laminate them, preferably with Cyano. It’s a good
idea to ensure you have hard outside edge and this can be achieved by running
additional glue down the join line on the outer edge.
Cut all the 5mm square parts and pin them over the plan. Now
fit K1, K2, K3, K4 and K5. (Picture 96) When the glue has dried remove
from the plan. Separate the rudder from the fin if it’s become stuck and sand
both sides flat with your sanding bar. Round the leading edge of the fin and the
sand the trailing edge to the section shown on the plan. As mentioned above the
super glue at the trailing edge helps to give a hard line at this point.

Picture 96
Mark the hinge positions on both the fin and the rudder posts
(Picture 97) and using a hinge slotter or your model knife carefully make
the slots for the hinges. The hinges can be glued into the fin post (Picture
98)…you MUST pin them after covering. The leading edge of the rudder could
have the sharp corners taken off it before testing the fit to the fin.
(Picture 99) This assembly is now complete and it’s time to move on to the
tailplane/ elevator build.

Picture 97 |

Picture 98 |

Picture 99 |
To start the tailplane, cover the plan again with film and the
select 3 pieces of 2.5 x 7.0 balsa from the stick pack to make up the leading
edge. Wet these thoroughly in hot water then dry them with a cloth or paper
towel. Place pins in the building board at the arrow points on the inside of the
leading edge curve. Using PVA or Aliphatic Adhesive, glue to the strips together
the lay them on the plan and starting at the centre place pins on the outside of
the curve to hold the strips against the inside pins until the glue dries.
(Picture 100 & 101) This task is best done late in the evening so it can set
overnight.

Picture 100 |

Picture 101 |
Sadly we now have a series of problems which I’ll
attempt to get you through. In the kit I took from our shelves to do this build
there are some disturbing errors …the first being that the tailpane spar is
incorrectly machined and is a little on the thick side. There are two options
with this….. one is that from your scrap box you make a new spar or you contact
us and we’ll get a new spar to you at no cost. It’s a simple matter to make a
new spar as the drawing for it is on the plan, however I understand completely
any dissatisfaction.
The next issue is that Tailplane Rib S2 is short at the
nose end. The most simple fix for this is to use the existing rib as a template
to cut two new ribs from some 1.5mm sheet. (Picture aaa)
Alternatively a packing piece could be added to the front end of both S2 Ribs.

Picture aaa
Lastly, all the ribs are slightly over-length from the
spar to the tail end. This requires some attention with a sharp blade or a
sanding board to achieve the correct fitting of the rear spar to all other
parts. (Picture bbb)

Picture bbb
Obviously I’m also totally embarrassed by this series of
events. All future kits will feature new Laser cut components so all the above
messing around will not be necessary.
Lets presume you’re about to carry on having acquired a new
spar by whatever means. The next step is to trim the ends of the leading edge in
order that the spar can be glued in place. (Picture 102) Laminate the
tailplane tip parts.

Picture 102
Now fit Rib S5 which will allow you to secure the laminated
tip. (Picture 103)

Picture 103
Glue together the two sets of centre ribs S1 and set in place
adding the die cut 1.5mm parts that form the mounting plate to the fuselage.
(Picture 104)

Picture 104
Complete the basic structure by adding the remaining ribs.
Trim the ends to allow the rear spar to be glued in place. (Picture 105)

Picture 105
When the structure is dry, remove it from the plan and shape
the leading edge and wing tips to the profiles shown on the plan (Picture 106
& 107) Mark the position of the hinges and slot the rear spar to accept
them. (Picture 108) Test fit and now move on to making the elevators.

Picture 106 |

Picture 107 |

Picture 108 |
Take the die-cut elevator halves and mark the hinge positions.
(Picture 109)
It’s easier to make provision for the hinges before you glue each elevator half
together so carefully use a sharp blade to carve a shallow recess as shown in
Picture 110 and 111. Before gluing the two halves together check the slots
look as they do in Picture 112.

Picture 109 |

Picture 110 |

Picture 111 |

Picture 112 |
When they’ve been glued together, use a razor plane to shape
then sand each half to section. Angle the leading edge of the elevators into a
“V” shape. (Picture 113)

Picture 113
Arrange the elevators over the plan and cut the hardwood
joiner piece to length then glue this in place. (Picture 114 & 115) With
the hinges in place, test fit the assembled elevator to the tailplane, then
check the fit of the fin and rudder assembly as in Picture 116, 117 and 118.
It will be beneficial to round the hardwood elevator joiner and the notches in
the fin base may need to be slighly enlarged to accept the leading edge and the
spars of the tailplane. Once this is fitting correctly you can sit the assembly
in place on the completed fuselage and stand back and admire! (Picture 119)

Picture 114 |

Picture 115 |

Picture 116 |

Picture 117 |

Picture 118 |

Picture 119 |
|